Wednesday, 2 June 2010

The Orkney Islands

Hello again! Our final blog installment about our weeklong holiday to the Highlands. The day after we enjoyed Loch Ness, we drove to the Isle of Skye, and after lunch there we carried on north to the Orkney Islands. Where are they? Well, if you go to the furthest north shore of Scotland, and take a 1 hour long ferry trip, you will get to the southern Orkney Islands. Although there are something like 70+ islands, only about the largest dozen are inhabited. They are known for their friendly people, diverse wildlife and seabird populations, neolithic archaeological sites, and Viking heritage. On our trip we were fortunate enough to see almost all of the above (not too many seabirds). We spent 2 nights on South Ronaldsay Island just outside a small village called St. Margaret's Hope. The following photos hopefully give a taste of this relaxing but intriguing area.

We arrived at about 7 pm and got to enjoy the long evening that is associated with the approaching summer solstice in Scotland. Here is the coastline in front of our cottage at dusk.

Sophia at the shore on the first evening. It is a beautiful beach, with a friendly seal who was very curious and kept his eye on us whenever we were there.
Again, just to prove it, this was the view from the front window. What a great location!

The kids with some of the locals. It was also great exercise walking down to the beach and back!

Emma and her new friend.


On the way to Kirkwall, on the main island we drove by this shipwreck not far off the road. Not sure why it hasn't been removed, except that it makes for a neat photo.

The Italian chapel. It was the tiny but beautiful chapel made for (and by) the Italian prisoners of war in Camp 60, right beside the chapel, in WWII. These prisoners were put to work everyday building the Churchill Barriers (huge manmade causeways, connecting the 3 main Orkney islands, and barricading the inner passages from German U-boats). Wanting somewhere to worship, they were given 2 small bunker-like buildings, to which they built a beautiful fascade and painted the interior very nicely. The chapel was preserved to honour their efforts and faith in such a demoralizing time.

Part of the interior of the Italian chapel. Small but beautifully painted!

This was our first neolithic visit. This is the prehistoric village of Skara Brae. In the 1800s a fierce storm exposed ancient stone walls, that were excavated to reveal this village. Highly preserved buildings, stone furniture, and many household items gave real insight into how these ancient people lived. It was fascinating to walk around these buildings from 3100 B.C. and to see so much detail and so many everyday items. 5000 years old!!!!

Kim standing beside one of the exposed buildings, with the original stone furnishings. I like the fact that they are still exposed to the elements, withstanding the test of time.

Next ancient site on our itinerary was the ancient tomb of Maeshowe. From the outside it was just this grassy hill, but with our guided tour we go to go into the locked chamber. It's hard to describe how great this was! Yes, it was "just" a 4500 year old burial chamber, built around 4 even-older standing stones, perfectly built so that the setting sun of the winter solstice shines exactly down the entrance passage to illuminate the interior. To add to that, is the fact that some vandals broke in and wrote graffiti all over the interior. These vandals were none other than the Vikings in about 900 A.D. Apparently during a particularly violent storm at sea, they beached their longboat, broke into the howe and weathered the storm inside. During the long night the Vikings scratched many runes, still completely visible and legible (if you are a runatic), with various greetings and forms of "Sigvaard was here making this message". Isaiah was very excited to see that one of the messages was signed by the viking named ERLING. After explaining that Grampa wasn't actually a Viking in his younger days, Isaiah was content to know that it was one of Grampa's great grampas. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take photos, but we bought the book from the nearby bookshop!

Sophie working on her Viking scowl. Actually, in the Orkneys, there were many Norwegian flags flying, and one resident told us that she considers herself more Norwegian than Scottish. The Orkneys were actually ruled by the Vikings for hundreds of years, and were only given to Scotland as part of a marriage dowry from the King of Norway later. Many of the names of towns and places are clearly Scandinavian, and the spreadout seaside villages and farms are very similar to photos I've seen of rural areas on the coast of Norway.

Oh, and did I tell you that we enjoyed our time with my dear brother Bruce? Okay, maybe it wasn't the real deal, but it was uncanny when Kim and I went through the Maeshowe tour with him. We both looked at each other and whispered "it's Bruce!" Scottish Bruce was nice enough to take a photo with me.

The Standing stones of Stenness. They echoed clapping back to you only if you stood in the exact center. Cool!

Isaiah, Sophie and I and a big old stone.

The Ring of Brodgar. Other than Stonehenge, this is the most impressive stone circle and henge in the U.K. Here however, unlike Stonehenge, you can actually walk amongst the stones and touch them (probably even hug them if you wanted to!) I felt a little like sitting in the middle and humming Kumbaya, but I kept it in.

Great view of the stones. Usually people Photoshop the background to make the sky look red and spectacular, but I liked the natural look!

Kim and Sophie in the town of Kirkwall. Nice town in a great area!

The Earl's Palace in Kirkwall. Great building, but apparently a bad dude. Made life miserable for everyone around him until the King of Scotland had to arrest him and execute him in Edinburgh.

Amazingly, this lonely sentry is standing in a field on the hill within view of the cottage that we stayed in. When I walked up to it (having to jump over a dozen barbwire fences first), it was huge, standing about 16 feet tall.

A final view of Isaiah, pondering his Viking heritage, and looking off towards Norway.

Well, that's it for now. Our holiday to the Highlands was awesome. If you ever get the chance to go, I'd highly recommend it. See you soon in our next update!
Jimy MacJohnson

No comments:

Post a Comment